Hiking the GR34, the Customs Officers' Path

If you only take away one way to discover our corner of Brittany, let it be this: on foot, along the GR34. Nicknamed the "customs officers' path" (sentier des douaniers), this legendary coastal trail loops around the whole of Brittany for more than 2,000 kilometres. The stretch crossing Clohars-Carnoët is one of the most varied in southern Finistère.

A little history

The path owes its nickname to the customs officers who, from the late 18th century, patrolled the coast to track down smugglers. Two centuries later, their surveillance trails have become one of the most beautiful hiking routes in France. Now waymarked in white and red, the GR34 alternates between cliffs, coves, heathland and small harbours.

The Le Pouldu — Laïta estuary stretch

This is our favourite, and it begins just minutes from the house. From Grands Sables beach the path climbs gently above the sea, then follows the estuary of the Laïta, the river that separates Finistère from Morbihan. You walk in the shade of pines, with superb views over the water and, opposite, the forest of Carnoët.

Allow about 2 hours there and back for a relaxed walk. The terrain is easy and suitable for occasional walkers.

The Le Pouldu — Doëlan stretch

In the other direction, the path heads east to the delightful harbour of Doëlan, passing the beaches of Bellangenêt and Le Kérou. This longer section (a good half-day there and back) rewards the effort with arrival at the harbour with its two lighthouses — perfect for a lunch break facing the boats.

Our practical tips

• Wear proper footwear: walking trainers or hiking shoes, as some passages are stony or slippery after rain.
• Bring water and a windbreaker: Breton weather changes fast, even in summer.
• Check the tides: some coves are at their best — or only passable — at low tide.
• Set off early in summer to enjoy the cool and the morning light.

Why stay here to hike

The real luxury, when you love walking, is being able to set off straight from your accommodation, without taking the car. The studio is ideally placed for that: the coastal path is just minutes away, and in the evening you return to the calm of the garden to rest your legs. After a good day's walking, the terrace beneath the palm trees feels like a well-earned reward.